For Mimi

I say it far too often, but the sole disadvantage of living in this big stinky bastion called Manhattan means doing without real Mexican food. No, I don't mean the respectable food genres that pass as Mexican--Dominican and Cuban and Puerto Rican--but the real cilantro and poblano chile soaked dishes that are hearty, spicy and gastric nightmares. It's a genius cuisine.

Growing up in California, Mexican food was practically a staple of our diet. It was always inexpensive and consistently delicious, spiked with lime and onions and salsa. I never forgo an opportunity to indulge in this unrepentant foodstuff on any visit to California and I've learned never to eat it anywhere other than Mexico, California, the Southwest and at The Frontera Grill in Chicago. Now, the Texans--bless them--took this food style one step further. Not only did they retain the flavors and signature dishes of the Mexican culture, they added their own voice with copious grilled meats and hotter flavor notes. The first time I tried Tex Mex, I knew there was a reason why I adore Texas. They get it. And, well, they are a damned friendly people.

So I'd like to offer this homage to Mexican food, with a nod to my friend Mimi and apologies to the late Edward Gorey.

A is for Arroz, a Mexican staple
B is for Burrito, finish one if you're able
C is for Carnitas, served hot from the grill
D is for Dinero, six courses cost you nil
E is for Enchilada, chicken, beef and/or cheese
F is for Flautas, light enough to appease
G is for Gorditas, so aptly named
H is for Huevos, rancheros or plain
I is for Ixtapa, whose beach I now need
J is for Jalapeno, please leave in the seeds
K is for Que? There's no "K" in Spanish
L is for Lentajas, frioles you can manage
M is for Mole, made with blood if you dare
N is for Nopalitos, from the prickly pear
O is for Oaxaca, a loved favored city
P is for Pollo, spit grilled brown and pretty
Q is for Queso, can you go wrong with cheese?
R is for Roja, pork and onions? Yes, please!
S is for Salsa. the chunky version is best
T is for Tequila, call the first shot a test
U is for Upchuck, when you drink too much "T"
V is for Venado, venison braised and juicy
W is for the Worm, please don't eat it, dear
X is for Dos Equis, the Bud of Mex beer
Y is for Yuca, a peculiar flavor I love
Z is for MeZcal, see "W" above