Because It's There

Looking out from our hotel window in the Nove Mesto section of Prague, we could see a mountainous stretch above Prague Castle. Thick with trees from which a replica of the Eiffel Tour peeked out, we decided to map out the route to get there. Fortunately for us and our aching calves, each turn presented a new and intriguing edifice and magnificent views of the city around us. After a brunch of cheese, bread, pickled cabbage, goulash, pork and strong coffee, we pressed uphill toward Prazsky hrad.The first stop: Zlata ulicka (Golden Lane), a 16th century street that once housed alchemists, archers, peddlers and poets (including Franz Kafka). However, copious tour groups and a $17 entrance fee was more than enough to discourage us entering the street. We kept moving up the hill.And up.We cut through the gardens of Prague Castle which were blissfully tourist free. I admired the pristine facade of the palace.As we continued around the curve of the upward road, we came across this curious juxtaposition of blind accordion player with a woman eating a banana next to him. It seemed very Luis Bunuel to me.A gazing cherub at The Loretta.
The Loretta church.The Stahov Monastery near the top of the hill.We pressed up 20 flights of stairs, our legs stiff with pain, but we had to continue because the top of the mountain was there (and so close). At last we reached the summit and gazed up at the Petrin Hill lookout.At this point, I was ready for a beer but we still had to walk down the hill and back into the city. Fortunately, it was a lovely walk through the wooded parklands of Petrinske sady and a break in the trees provided a breathtaking view.Even the tree fungus here is colorful.Finally back at sea level, we stopped for a beer. It tasted like nectar.We still had things to see so we had to have a little nosh to keep up our energy. We split a local dish--fried cheese. It's actually milder and lighter than it may sound; the cabbage served with it cut the richness. Delish.Our bellies sated, we were off in search of Villa Bertramka in Mala strana. Villa Bertramka is a 17th century country home of Josefine Dusek who hosted Mozart here while he completed Don Giovanni. The museum featured artifacts and instruments, including a harpscichord Mozart used during his stay here. When we arrived, there was a string quartet en concert which was delightful. We then made the many mile walk back to Nove Mesto. When we arrived at the old town square at 7:30 pm, we were exhausted, hungry and in need of a rest. As much as we've enjoyed the copious pork and cabbage meals, we decided to have Italian food at an open air restaurant just off the main square. Over a meal of carpaccio, pizza and a bottle of Chianti classico, we watched a parade of people wander by. The square was full of humanity--the first match of soccer's Euro Cup was underway and the Czech Republic was playing Switzerland. The Czechs take this match very seriously--there were multiple ginormous screens errected in the Starometske namesti broadcasting the match live for the population (and I think they were all there watching). When the Czechs scored, the burst of noise that erupted was staggering. The Czechs won the match so there was much drunken celebration.
It was quite a day.