Sunday, November 12, 2006


A quick little Sunday shout out to some favorite New York landmarks.

So many of the old cafes and delis and restaurants that were fixtures of the old Manhattan mosaic have closed down, only to be replaced by non-distinctive bodegas, yet another Duane Reade drug store or still another retail chain store. The old places, places with character, musty smells and worn linoleum, are the places I love most. Here are three that I particularly like:

C.O. Bigelow's in the West Village (pictured)
This charming old apothecary first opened in 1838. While it certainly carries a wealth of new and exotic beauty products and potions, it still also carries the classic C.O. Bigelow product line with their turn of the century labels. Their mentha lip balm and herbal mints have been a staple of the place for ages. The inside of this 168 year old shop is a visual treat--the old pharmacy trappings, heavy mahogany counters and original ceiling and wall woodwork is worth a visit. And they sell Marvis toothpaste, which I think is the Dom Perignon of toothpaste.

Barney Greengrass on the Upper West Side
This family owned delicatessen, which opened in 1908, touts itself as The Sturgeon King. And indeed, their collection of herring, smoked sturgeon, whitefish, lox and caviar is awe inspiring. Combined with some of their delicious bagels and ruggelah, you can eat like a king. The place has stayed in the family for three generations and the current owner, Mo, is Barney's grandson. He minds the cash register most days. The interior has experienced few upgrades since it opened, for better or worse, and it's easy to imagine what it was like to sit and have a nosh at one of their tiny tables in 1920, 1948 or 1977. It truly can be called Jewish Soul Food.

Eisenberg's Sandwich Shop in the Flatiron District
This is a classic old lunchette, with a long formica counter and lots of stools. They serve only sandwiches. No burgers. No fries. No salads. Sandwiches. What I like about the place (besides it's rustic interior and focused menu), are the chalk sandwich board they post outside the front door. Every day, there is a new message. In the last week, there were a few bon mots on display:

-Raising New Yorkers' Cholesterol Since 1929
-Now That You've Had a Nice Smoothie From Jamba Juice, Come Wash it Down With a Nice Pastrami Sandwich
-[On the day after the election] What Are You Waiting For? The Sun is Out. Rumsfeld is Out. Foley is Out. Come and Celebrate with a Nice Ham on Rye.

They do make a damn fine Ruben on dark rye too.

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