Saturday, September 16, 2006

I love road trips. I relish taking a long weekend, throwing an overnight bag in the car and hitting the open road with abandon. I feel the draw to it most strongly just now, because summer is coming to an end and roadtrips are synonymous with summer. And perhaps because we haven't taken any kind of road trip this year. And well, living in Manhattan, I no longer own a car, making the opportunity a little less spontaneous.

It's not the destination that holds the most promise for me, but rather the strange and distinctly American attractions one finds along the way. These are but a few that hold special sway in my heart:

Pea Soup Andersen's - There are three branches of this cheesy Danish eaterie, but the one I always frequent is in a quiet hamlet located somewhere between San Francisco and Fresno called Santa Nella. As far as I can tell, the only things in Santa Nella are Pea Soup Andersen's, a gas station, a few fruit stands, a motel and a veteran's cemetery. The restaurant, with its large rotating windmill and kitschy Scandinavian motifs, offers a full menu, but what brings the customers in is the pea soup. Served in a generous bowl with a side of accoutrements (ham, onion, cheese, croutons), this thick and tasty soup is a marvel. And what's more--you can get it as an appetizer with breakfast, as much as you can eat. What's not to love?

Fish Museum - Somewhere just outside Los Banos, CA on Highway 152 is The World Famous Fish Museum. There are decrepit red signs on the outskirts of an agricultural expanse heralding its presence and indeed, after navigating a treacherous and dusty road of several miles, you will happen upon a barely standing edifice. The outside of the shack features display cases of taxidermied fish and squid and marlins which you can gawk at through filthy, greying Plexiglas. You can also get the worst cup of coffee you'll ever have in your life..that is, if Buck, the owner, feels like opening the cafe.

Dinny the Dinosaur - Anyone who has ever made the thankless drive between Riverside County and Palm Springs will have surely passed The World's Largest Dinosaur monument in Cabazon, CA. The massive orange Brontosaurus dominates an otherwise empty skyline and what's more, houses a bathroom. Always worth a stop.

Solvang - Just outside of Santa Barbara is the world famous getaway of Solvang. This place personifies quaint and cheesy and I wouldn't have it any other way. Every restaurant in this sleepy village offers the staples of Danish culinary delights: frikadeller (meat balls), medisterpolse (sausage), rodkaal (red cabbage) and my favorite, the aebleskiver, a ball of cooked dough covered with powdered sugar and served with jam. They are, literally, the Danish equivalent of crack.

The Madonna Inn - One look at this 50 year old monstrosity of a hotel outside of San Luis Obispo and you'll find yourself saying, "Jesus, Mary, Joseph and the donkey they rode in on!" An incredibly fascinating hode podge of 1960s decor can be found under the roof of this fine establishment. The Madonna Inn offers 109 rooms, each with an individual theme. These can range from the famous Caveman room to the "Time of your Life" room (one suspects quarters will be involved). It really must be seen to be believed.

The Giant Orange - This is a roadside stand on Highway 99 just outside Madera, CA. This giant Fiberglas orange is home to the world famous Alaska Burger, which is usually served with a glass of orange juice. Curiously, the burgers are quite delicious but what's more--the Giant Orange has it's own historical lore. Novelist and playwright William Saroyan once slept in the Giant Orange when he ran out of gas late one night, many, many years ago.

B.J.'s Kountry Kitchen - This is my favorite place to have breakfast ever. Located in Fresno, CA, walking into B.J.'s is like stumbling onto the "Hee Haw" set. The women are dressed like Daisy Mae, there is a not-well-executed train theme and lots of really tacky country kitsch. But we don't go there for the decor. We go for their biscuits and country gravy which kick ASS.

The Big Pie Shop - While most of my road trips have been in California, I have had occasion to venture into other parts of the states, generally during the course of work travel. Once during a long drive between Houston and Beaumont, Texas, I stumbled upon a pie shop just near Port Arthur. But this was no ordinary pie shop. The concoctions of meringue and pudding were like a prom dress. The fruit pies, with pastry as thick of a piece of sheet rock was awe inspiring. And I still remember the waitress, a doughy and cheerful gal with really big hair asking me as I finished off a piece of cheery pie the size of Hoover Dam, "Y'all want seconds?" Lord have mercy.

Waffle Houses - And you knew this was coming. I love, love, love traveling through the South, if not for the many kitschy roadside attractions but for their famous Waffle Houses. The yellow block letters that stand on precarious white poles for all the world to see makes me feel like a sailor being called by Circe. I have frequented Waffle Houses in Georgia, Tennessee, Kentucky, Mississippi and North Carolina. And you know what I order every time, don't you now? Chicken and waffles.

What are your favorite roadside haunts?

6 comments:

SDCrawford said...

It's not a trip to Tahoe without a stop at "fruit burger" I have no idea what it's true name is but my family calls it "fruit burger" becase it's a fruit stand & burger joint. Excellent burgers & fries. My dad will go out of his way just to see what is down that road. One spring break I got saw a toxic waste dump!

Jane said...

I grew up in a family that stopped for nothing on road trips. We arrived in Michigan after a three-day cross-country trip with toothpaste splattered on the back windows because my dad wouldn't stop to brush. Still, as a kid I begged to go to the Enchanted Forest outside Salem, Ore., a kitchy fairy tale themed park that had a haunted house, an old west ghost town and, my favorite, the mine of the seven dwarves. Also the Undersea Gardens on the waterfront in Newport, Ore., with their live diver show and anemones in the touch tank.

Chicken And Waffles said...

Oh, Jane, girl. You need to make those stops. Get the Dog Whisperer and you in the car and go. NOW!

SDCrawford said...

I try to suggest a diversion or two on roadtrips and Jane just shrugs her shoulders and mumbles about wanting to get home sooner. I did manage a detour to the giant redwood that one can drive a car through. We have pictures.

mcfog said...

The Madonna Inn...uhm-hmmm, I could use a milkshake.

One of my all time favorites has got to be Morro Bay. I love the salt water taffy (which I avoid now as long as possible due to the vacation home I have purchased for my dentist, his wife, his kids, and his dogs). But, the true reason to go for me has always been Dorn's. The clam chowder is---pure comfort in a bowl.

Chicken And Waffles said...

Oh, McFog--I know that place abd yes, you're right. The clam chowder is wonderful. We'll add that to the list.
So when are we taking our road trip, girl?